Dunes and Dust in the Namib-Nakluft National Park
One of Namibia’s best-known attractions, Sossusvlei and its surrounds in the Namib-Naukluft National Park is a must-visit destination when visiting the country. The Tsauchab River, trying to flow into the Atlantic Ocean about 60 kilometres to the East comes to an abrupt stop in the dunes giving the area its name, which is translated to “dead-end marsh”. Although the area is generally referred to as Sossusvlei, this area of the park is home to a number of other attractions such as Sesriem Canyon, Dune 45, Hiddenvlei, Big Daddy and Deadvlei.
We camped at Little Sosuss Camping Site, which we would recommend to anybody wanting to travel this side of Namibia. It is a bit further away from the park but the limited number of well-kept stands offers a much more tranquil atmosphere than the packed campsites closer to Sesriem. The open landscape, with views of the mountains in front of you and the countless number of stars in the evening sky, makes it all worth it. A powered shelter on each individual stand consists of a clean sink, toilet, shower, basins and electricity. The sunrise and sunset can be captured in the surrounding mountains. In the evenings, be on the lookout for the veldmuis (field mouse) when they come out to play and look for food.
Little Sossus is about 80 kilometres from Sossusvlei on a well-worn dirt road, add extra time if you need to travel this road in the morning before heading to the park. There is a rush to enter the gates at Sesriem as the best photos usually consist of untouched dunes, so schedule your visit accordingly. We were waiting at the gate by six am, almost two hours before opening and we were already the second vehicle in the queue. Ensure you check what time the gates open for Sossusvlei, as times change based on the season; a good indication is based on the sunrise and sunset. You first go and explore and upon exit, you pay for your visit at the reception, so do not waste time trying to sort out admin. There is a smooth tar road covering the 60 kilometres through the dunes.
The first popular landmark on the road leading the Sossusvlei is Dune 45. Located 45km from the Sesriem Gate to Sossusvlei. Not a very creative name right? Nevertheless, these peach/apricot coloured dunes are mesmerising. The climb to the peak of the dune will take an average speed walker about 15 to 20 minutes depending on the early morning traffic. After all the effort of walking up the dune, we recommended a sprint down on the side of the dune at full speed. Pay attention to the different dune shapes around you when you’ve peaked, dune shapes can be categorised as star, dome, lunette and parabolic.
To reach the next destination, you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle or have one of the tourist shuttles drive you as the remaining five kilometres to Deadvlei is made up of very thick and loose sand. We saw a few cars that had wheels stuck in the fine sand. Stay on the tracks of other vehicles as the sand here is generally more compact which will reduce your chances of getting stuck. Once you make it to the parking lot, pack enough water, snacks, sunscreen. Put on comfortable shoes and gaiters if you have and start the one-kilometre walk to reach the Deadvlei. Deadvlei is made up of dry and bare Camel Thorn trees with a strong “foothold” in the dry white pan. Deadvlei is a playground for photographers as the dark trees, light pan and surrounding red dunes make for amazing photos. The dark dry trees that remain are said to be over 600 years old and withstand the merciless sun, dry climate and winds every season. Respect the area and do not break, stand or hang on the trees. This will ensure this amazing area is available for generations to come.
After taking some amazing photographs its time to earn your lunch. Big Daddy dune is one of the highest sand dunes in the world, measuring a steep height of 325m. Our group was split on how to conquer the peak of this majestic dune. Half of us followed the popular trail from the side up, crossing three dunes to reach the top, while the other half of us, the crazy ones, tackled the challenge of hike Big Daddy directly from the bottom straight up. Needless to say, out of the crazy ones, only one of us actually made it up – in 45 minutes. The secret to conquering this challenge? 10 to 20 steps at a time, and rest for a couple of minutes. If you catch the dunes when it’s been exposed to the sun and entraps heat for long enough, sway your hands across the sand, and experience the roaring sand similar to the Brulsand dunes in the Northern Cape of South Africa.
Lunch can be enjoyed beneath the large trees at the Deadvlei parking area. In merely a couple of hours, the Namib-Nakluft National Park served up some of the most beautiful destinations in the world. Once you have recharged, you can continue enjoying other areas of the park or head back to the gate a Sesriem the same way you came in. A celebratory beer or ice cream awaits at the Sesriem reception area where you can debrief and share stories with other visitors of the area.
This post forms part of our 2019 Namibia Road Trip. We planned an epic road trip the months leading up to June and it was worth every bit of planning, research and expense. We visited Augrabies, Fish River Canyon, Luderitz, Aus and Spitzkoppe to name only a few. We recommend the trip to anyone who wants to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. We will try to give as much up to date information as possible in this series of articles but recommend you check the local websites for the latest information before embarking on your journey.
